IFSC Climbing World Cup Moscow 2019 - Bouldering Finals

  • Objavljeno Pred 7 dnevi

    International Federation of Sport ClimbingInternational Federation of Sport Climbing

    Trajanje: 3:7:37

    For the bouldering stage, route setters quickly raised the bar very high only allowing 7 tops in the entire Semi-Finals, creating a real challenge for those wanting to advance to the finals.
    The finals were a different story. In order for the athletes to have even reached the podium they would have needed to top all 4 problems. Even topping 3 problems like Futaba ITO (JPN), Jessica PILZ (AUT) and Lucka RAKOVEC (SLO) wouldn’t have been enough, all coming out at the bottom with a rank of 6, 5 and 4 respectively. Lucka, 17 years old, was very impressive for her first IFSC World Cup including 3 flashes!
    A close race between Fanny GIBERT (FRA) and Shauna COXSEY (GBR) was particularly intense as they tied in the finals (4T4z 6 6), but Shauna ultimately coming out on top due to her first-place finish in the Semis.
    As in Meiringen, Janja GARNBRET (SLO) looked powerful and confident. She flashed all 4 problems and won her 2nd consecutive gold medal in the 2019 competition season.
    Her compatriot, Jernej KRUDER finished almost as well with 4 tops (“only” 2 flashes) winning himself a gold medal. Adam ONDRA (CZE) missed his chance to win a second gold medal without topping M4.
    Yoshiyuki OGATA (JPN) didn’t even reach the zone in M4, but still managed to end the competition on the 3rd step of the podium.
    With 2 tops and 3 zones, Anze PEHARC (SLO) finished the competition with his best performance in an IFSC World Cup.
    All the information about the event on:
    www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/component/ifsc/?view=event&WetId=7926
    About IFSC:
    The IFSC is an international non-governmental non-profit organization whose main objectives are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of climbing competitions around the world.
    About the Channel:
    The IFSC Channel - On this Channel you can follow the three climbing disciplines: Speed, Lead and Bouldering. Follow live streams, athlete interviews and event highlights brought to you by the International Federation of Sport Climbing!
    World up...Keep climbing!
    Website: www.ifsc-climbing.org/
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    Twitter: twitter.com/IFSClimbing
    SLfilm: slfilm.net/us/ifscchannel
    LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/company/international-federation-of-sport-climbing

R.B.
R.B.

Anyone got a time stamp for when Jan Hoyer 1 arm dynos his way from the starting hold to the finish?

Pred 10 urami
Doctor ibanez
Doctor ibanez

I think both sex sould climb the same rutes.

Pred 11 urami
Tibuwi
Tibuwi

Route setters can never be sure how hard a rout will be for the climbers. Women were insanely strong as well!

Pred dnevom
stanleygqm
stanleygqm

Time to find a new job camera man

Pred dnevom
Karan Sindhwani
Karan Sindhwani

amazing comp. too bad about the ladies, but its hard to predict after such a tough semis

Pred 2 dnevi
Timo Arnold
Timo Arnold

Puhhh Adam Ondra is still human

Pred 3 dnevi
Thomas Pham
Thomas Pham

I want Adam Ondra to scream like he does out doors. That'll be epic. Try hard!!!

Pred 3 dnevi
Heven1o
Heven1o

Love how she says, Comon Jessie

Pred 4 dnevi
Rock Steady
Rock Steady

1st place trophy looks like its a 4th place (1:28:30) hehehe i can imagine Janja showing it to someone and that someone thinking "Humm are you sure you didnt get 4th?" hehehehe

Pred 4 dnevi
Cacovangor
Cacovangor

Utterly disappointed with the set for the women for not displaying the strength and capacity of the athletes. This seemed more an exhibition than a championship...

Pred 4 dnevi
Schmetterling
Schmetterling

Cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon cmon uuuuuhhhhhhhhh cmon yeah?

Pred 5 dnevi
Truth Matters
Truth Matters

c'mon ! thats gonna haunt me for long time..did anybody tell her the climbers cant hear her ?

Pred 5 dnevi
Truth Matters
Truth Matters

who is the female commentator? annoying !

Pred 5 dnevi
Truth Matters
Truth Matters

+Yann Lisicki thanks..I hope she wont be commenting any soon :D

Pred 3 dnevi
Yann Lisicki
Yann Lisicki

Katja Kadic

Pred 3 dnevi
Truth Matters
Truth Matters

+Schmetterling no shit sherlock..i wouldnt guess that in a million years :D

Pred 4 dnevi
Schmetterling
Schmetterling

Ex pro

Pred 5 dnevi
Jonas Joha Johanson
Jonas Joha Johanson

It's such a shame that professionals who excel in climbing are forced to rely on RedBull's money to earn their livings. Just wait till they convert climbing to some sort of circus aka "extreme sport" where only the person who does the most extreme and dangerous stuff wins. In a perfect world a professional climber could make a living from their profession just like any other football, soccer, tennis or golf player. I really hope the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo will make climbing a bit more public. It's time for those people to make some money during their time as a professional climber. At least enough to build a live on later on.

Pred 5 dnevi
R.B.
R.B.

Has to make money in order to pay the athletes.

Pred 10 urami
DeathMonkeyRacer
DeathMonkeyRacer

Regarding the women's route setting, the boulders being too easy can still make for an interesting final as it is then more important to flash them. The main frustration for me is that the last two boulders were essentially the same moves. Still enjoyable round overall I felt.

Pred 5 dnevi
Marika Svensson
Marika Svensson

Is it really only janja that uses the "signature move"?

Pred 5 dnevi
Moonti
Moonti

It's a move to cut down momentum after a dyno and pretty much all climbers do it but Janja has a habit to raise her leg really high when doing it hence it being her "signature move"

Pred 4 dnevi
Master Propper
Master Propper

I know the girl in the booth is no professional commentator, and maybe I wouldn't do a much better job, but someone should have told her to refrain from cheering on the climbers while commentating. It's super super repetitive, super annoying, and even interrupts the absolutely professional and great commentary of Charlie Boscoe. COME ON FANNY, COME ON LUCKA, COME ON JESSE, COME ON JANJA, COME ON SHAUNA - NICE! ... not.

Pred 5 dnevi
Liam Fox
Liam Fox

10:39 Adam Ondra's like wtf

Pred 6 dnevi
Clayton Davey
Clayton Davey

Glad we have a guest co caster to repeat the words "come on" and "nice" 25 times per minute. Really adds to my enjoyment of the event.

Pred 6 dnevi
Aaron Flynn
Aaron Flynn

ADAM ONDRA - 01:48:11, 01:59:45, 02:23:00, 02:44:50

Pred 6 dnevi
Pius tus
Pius tus

Routesetting for the women just cannot happen on a professional level. .... It is not only really disappointing to watch, but foremost disrespectful towards the female climbers

Pred 6 dnevi
Дмитрий Арсентьев
Дмитрий Арсентьев

3:05:17 nice russian socks! Wonder if anyone told Jernej what's written there :)

Pred 6 dnevi
Malte Peters
Malte Peters

Quote: Japanese, they are all just so good... and there is so many of them. Lol

Pred 6 dnevi
Austin Lokey
Austin Lokey

What about Chon, Narasaki, & the rest of the high placing Japanese men team?

Pred 6 dnevi
Funclimb
Funclimb

Narasaki didn't go to Moscow.

Pred 5 dnevi
Thomas Koller
Thomas Koller

Please edit the start out where nothing's happening. And please don't put the logo on top of the watch. Would make the videos much more professional. Like the rest and the commenting.

Pred 6 dnevi
Rob C
Rob C

Charlie, just saying I found your commentary a bit annoying for this round. "perfect start" - it wasn't flash, therefore it wasn't perfect. "he learnt a bit about the move" - no, he had a high foot the first time so it was a different move. Just sounded a bit amateurish really, sorry.

Pred 6 dnevi
Schmetterling
Schmetterling

Any more amateurish than the female commentator

Pred 4 dnevi
Blaise Zak
Blaise Zak

Ondra: 1:48:28 2:00:00 2:23:15 2:45:11

Pred 6 dnevi
dawn brown
dawn brown

The route setting made this final rather boring to watch... way too easy I'm afraid.

Pred 6 dnevi
cheznikos
cheznikos

worst final in the history of bouldering wc due to the route setters. Also it would have been nice to find out where all the japanese are. I guess they made a smart choice skipping that one. Imagine how many more boring tops we would have to endure then!

Pred 6 dnevi
Mister Anderson
Mister Anderson

2:26:11 Kruder wtf how

Pred 6 dnevi
SnowmansApartment
SnowmansApartment

wt... was so surprised at the end xD

Pred 6 dnevi
KK
KK

Climbing starts at 29:20

Pred 6 dnevi
mog10e
mog10e

WOMEN Ito Rakovec Pilz Gibert Garnbret Coxsey SCORES W1 29:27 31:27 35:31 39:40 40:54 42:36 44:24 W2 44:56 46:09 47:34 48:49 50:07 51:18 52:44 W3 55:02 59:25 1:00:36 1:04:36 1:07:33 1:09:04 1:11:28 W4 1:11:46 1:14:00 1:15:12 1:17:00 1:18:24 1:19:56 1:22:24* MEN Kruder Timonov Ogata Peharc Kawamata Ondra SCORES M1 1:30:50 1:32:44 1:37:00 1:40:00 1:43:44 1:48:15 1:50:03 M2 1:50:39 1:51:58 1:53:58 1:55:13 1:57:27 1:59:45 2:01:02 M3 2:03:10 2:07:10 2:11:22 2:14:12 2:18:40 2:23:00 2:25:59 M4 2:26:13 2:27:41 2:31:56 2:36:18 2:40:38 2:44:52 2:49:21 ----- * Shauna Coxseys final ranking was second not third (listen 1:31:29)

Pred 6 dnevi
Juan Gª Chicano Muñoz
Juan Gª Chicano Muñoz

Pretty bad audiovisual production...

Pred 6 dnevi
Sean Harris
Sean Harris

I do not agree, can you explain your opinion ??

Pred 4 dnevi
Archie Croft
Archie Croft

For the routesetting, do they have men setting out the men's routes and women for the women's routes? I'm new to this so I'm not sure how it works. Thanks.

Pred 6 dnevi
FinalFr3ak
FinalFr3ak

Yeah they do. Problem is there are few, if any women setting routes for the championship.

Pred 6 dnevi
Elias Hardt
Elias Hardt

You can hear the pain in Charlie’s voice after the three flashes of W2

Pred 6 dnevi
Mikhail Podobin
Mikhail Podobin

а наш то обосрался и конкретно причём!

Pred 6 dnevi
John McMahon
John McMahon

Such an amazing women's semi-final followed by a real dull women's final. The commentators always say that these top fests are more interesting for the viewers: they are not. I don't mind it when a boulder does not get topped, as long as it gets unlocked (like Fanny Gibert on women's 4 in the semis - obviously figured out the boulder, but just was not quite able to stick the last move). P.S. A note to the commentators and route setters: looking through the comments it appears most people like the boulders to be a real challenge over real easy. Charlie says that a boulder that does not get topped is "over-cooked", but as long as people get close to topping it, then I don't think there are many people who would agree with him.

Pred 6 dnevi
R.B.
R.B.

IMO the perfect boulder is one that gets topped by only one or two of the climbers. That should be the goal, of course you can't always succeed but that should be the gold standard.

Pred 10 urami
Grotop
Grotop

Adam Ondra 1:48:09 1:59:40 2:22:57 2:44:47

Pred 6 dnevi
Hablo
Hablo

Thanks so much!

Pred 15 urami
Akalight lol
Akalight lol

the last one is soo fucking sad, and ty for the links

Pred 6 dnevi
Stefan
Stefan

i love you

Pred 6 dnevi
Brent Spillane
Brent Spillane

Terrible commentary.

Pred 6 dnevi
Theaddekalk
Theaddekalk

ondra going no edge shoe,, noice

Pred 7 dnevi
Theaddekalk
Theaddekalk

+Cacovangor ye I know they have several different, saw that now also . But it's not often a boulderer uses the no edge shoe. So I thought it was nice. Thanks for your info though

Pred 4 dnevi
Cacovangor
Cacovangor

Theaddekalk Adam brings both Solutions and Futuras to the mat, using the Solutions primarily except when reading a crux as including more friction from body position. Both are built on the same last with similar characteristics except thickness on the sole and tensioning system with the heel cup which makes the Futura more reliable standing or heeling from volumes.

Pred 4 dnevi
Alfonso Jimenez
Alfonso Jimenez

..disappointing final routes for women, the same than last year in the same place.

Pred 7 dnevi
Duzurix Duzurix
Duzurix Duzurix

Imagine getting 4 tops and beign barely on podium xD

Pred 7 dnevi
Ni_Cò
Ni_Cò

Janja

Pred 7 dnevi
Luke Gowen
Luke Gowen

Is anyone else having huge lag in this video?!?!

Pred 7 dnevi
Iki10
Iki10

Men's 1:30:17 Men, Boulder 1 Jernej Kruder 1:30:55 Vadim Timonov 1:32:43 Yoshiyuki Ogata 1:37:07 Anze Peharc 1:40:02 Rei Kawamata 1:43:42 Adam Ondra 1:48:15 Men, Standings 1 1:50:03 Men, Boulder 2 Jernej Kruder 1:50:35 Vadim Timonov 1:51:57 Yoshiyuki Ogata 1:53:55 Anze Peharc 1:55:12 Rei Kawamata 1:57:25 Adam Ondra 1:59:43 Men, Standings 2 2:01:02 Men, Boulder 3 Jernej Kruder 2:03:18 Vadim Timonov 2:07:10 Yoshiyuki Ogata 2:11:20 Anze Peharc 2:14:10 Rei Kawamata 2:18:19 Adam Ondra 2:23:00 Men, Standings 3 2:25:53 Men, Boulder 4 Jernej Kruder 2:26:15 Vadim Timonov 2:27:50 Yoshiyuki Ogata 2:31:50 Anze Peharc 2:36:16 Rei Kawamata 2:40:38 Adam Ondra 2:44:50 Men, Standings Final 2:49:21

Pred 7 dnevi
catie lee
catie lee

Where are miho and akiyo??

Pred 7 dnevi
plancked
plancked

Akiyo is skipping this one for training reasons, and Miho has a shoulder injury.

Pred 6 dnevi
riricky815
riricky815

catie lee heard that from semi final

Pred 7 dnevi
riricky815
riricky815

catie lee commentator said one of them has shoulder injury if I didnt misheard that

Pred 7 dnevi
james64ibm
james64ibm

1:18:44 Janja simply ignoring holds to give herself at least a bit of a challenge.

Pred 7 dnevi
Climbing with Kai
Climbing with Kai

She did not ignore it but used a different sequence ;)using it eventually. Fanny Gibert did ignore a hold.

Pred 6 dnevi
cheznikos
cheznikos

Pretty bad for the men too, deciding on just one Boulder. What a waste that was

Pred 7 dnevi
cheznikos
cheznikos

+FinalFr3ak why are you humiliating yourself like that? have you even watched?

Pred 6 dnevi
FinalFr3ak
FinalFr3ak

?! What? How is that bad if the last problem decides who wins? That is the best you can hope for? It made it really exciting to watch O__o

Pred 6 dnevi
Juhani Kuronen
Juhani Kuronen

After hard and varying semi finals for women I was afraid this might happen. I rather watch the athletes struggle for the top than count on who did NOT flash all of them.

Pred 7 dnevi
Juhani Kuronen
Juhani Kuronen

+bolsachem Probably want to make sure they don't have to use qualification round count backs. But some logic would work for finals. The best final boulders were in the world championships last year. Janja topped 2 and got 1 zone, and I think no one else even got a top. Rule of thumb: If in doubt, make them bit harder.

Pred 5 dnevi
bolsachem
bolsachem

i noticed it happened last year too. semis were harder and finals. and attempts matter way more

Pred 6 dnevi
Kumato Bazha
Kumato Bazha

Really enjoyed the female commentator! 😁👌

Pred 7 dnevi
Kumato Bazha
Kumato Bazha

And male haha

Pred 7 dnevi
Nuno Fonseca
Nuno Fonseca

After such an interesting semis for the women what a disappointing final with flashes by most athletes on some good looking problems but so undercooked for top climbers. Don't understand what the route setters were thinking when they conjured these one's up :\

Pred 7 dnevi
Nuno Fonseca
Nuno Fonseca

+Obadiah Jessup That's true in many senses. Yet these competitions are not meant to please people but to test athletes abilities and in that regard the female problems hardy challenged them...

Pred 3 dnevi
Obadiah Jessup
Obadiah Jessup

No one is ever happy

Pred 3 dnevi
Katzen33
Katzen33

They should've taken out a couple holds from the women's routes 😂 But seriously it kinda sucks having so little in between 3rd-1st

Pred 7 dnevi
greengraycolor
greengraycolor

Camera man, please show entire problem during observation. Please!

Pred 7 dnevi
Philipp !
Philipp !

and climber while climbing😂😥

Pred 6 dnevi
Lea Weinrich
Lea Weinrich

Not a big fan of the female commentator. Main comment being "come on"

Pred 7 dnevi
wherebsara
wherebsara

I am sure she is a wonderful climber and a great person and no doubt she had no idea she was going to be asked to comment. But it was a little hard to watch with repeated "come on". This is in no way a negative comment to the young lady commenting just constructive feedback to help the show, thanks for the upload and great show!

Pred dnevom
Bloxeh
Bloxeh

My impression was that she was struggling with finding words in english due to nervousness. I assume she has a lot interesting things to say, just needs to get more practice.

Pred 6 dnevi
Sam Staps
Sam Staps

+Pecan Pie Gamba, gamba! 😂😂

Pred 6 dnevi
Pecan Pie
Pecan Pie

Agree. Not the best choice. Some climbers are fantastic at providing a more in depth insight and analysis from a professional angle. Here that insight consisted of "come on", "gamba", "nice", "yes", "amazing", "mmm" etc.

Pred 6 dnevi
SirGabe
SirGabe

Yea she's making me anxious... She makes a much better fan than commentator

Pred 6 dnevi
Tamás Varga
Tamás Varga

Overall very good quality of broadcasting, I much enjoy the speakers too. One important request, please please please show the results board every time when climbers are leaving and entering. Thanks in advance

Pred 7 dnevi
R.B.
R.B.

+Miro Trifonov Then she shouldn't be commentating.

Pred 10 urami
Miro Trifonov
Miro Trifonov

+JJ Sevins She's not a comentator, she's a competitor and the people climbing are probably her firends :)

Pred 5 dnevi
JJ Sevins
JJ Sevins

Charlie Boscoe is great as always. His female co-commentator was annoying because she wanted to cheer people on "c'mon... c'monnn... nice! c'mon!" which is not a commentary. She says "c'mon over 200 times in 30 mins... wtf"

Pred 6 dnevi
Lukas Gehring
Lukas Gehring

the ifsc logo blocks the clock.

Pred 7 dnevi
R.B.
R.B.

Ego.

Pred 10 urami
timcthefilmguy
timcthefilmguy

completely dependent on your screen size

Pred 6 dnevi
dimogiorgos
dimogiorgos

Such a terrible routesetting for women. Too easy boulders and the last two almost identical.

Pred 7 dnevi
R.B.
R.B.

+David Murray This aint a local competition. It's WORLD CLASS. Routesetting should also be world class.

Pred 10 urami
Jonas Joha Johanson
Jonas Joha Johanson

Well, all is said about the difficulty problems of the women problems. That being said, who else was surprised about the style of climbing we saw? I expected some sort of this so-called "Tokyo" or "Japanese" style. I though we'll have to suffer some more of this dynamic run and jump parkour like type of climbing. I appreciate the change though. Possibly the criticism of the past had some effect after all.

Pred 5 dnevi
Polly Strott
Polly Strott

Especially compared to the semifinal problems!

Pred 6 dnevi
Marina C.Ll.
Marina C.Ll.

Completely agree, I’m quite disappointed considering we’re talking about a world cup. But the athletes managed to pull off an amazing show nevertheless

Pred 6 dnevi
dimogiorgos
dimogiorgos

+David Murray I hope you understand that everyone is entitled into his opinion. Many people agree that the women problems were really bad. You can disagree with that and it is respectable. However, your irony makes you a moron. I am not a route setter but I can always express my opinion about the routesetting of a world cup event.

Pred 6 dnevi
cheznikos
cheznikos

That route setter really messed it up for the ladies. Too bad

Pred 7 dnevi
Daniel Horton
Daniel Horton

M3 kinda reminds of the boulder problem that Honnold free solo’d on El Cap. Obviously, it’s not exactly the same, but it’s similar

Pred 7 dnevi
Michael Scytale
Michael Scytale

Worst final ever, do you think only flash is cool to watch??? Not for me it's so boring ...

Pred 7 dnevi
Equationist
Equationist

+cheznikos While difficulty can be hard to gauge, it's weird that they set W3 and W4 with almost identical dynos.

Pred 6 dnevi
Nuno Fonseca
Nuno Fonseca

+Daniel Horton A world cup route setter knows well the world class athletes. They know what these outstanding climbers are capable of...

Pred 7 dnevi
cheznikos
cheznikos

+Daniel Horton bullshit. Terrible route setting. Worst I can remember. Identical moves, too easy, not any classical type of moves, just some nasty bad stuff here.

Pred 7 dnevi
Daniel Horton
Daniel Horton

Michael Scytale as a setter, you can’t know how the climbers will fare. It’s pure chance. It wasn’t their intent to make it easier than the semis. In fact, these were likely made to be harder. It just so happened that they suited the climbers in the final. Quit bitchin

Pred 7 dnevi
Tactical Chunder
Tactical Chunder

Men’s was pretty good this time round. Women’s was shocking. Needs to be much harder.

Pred 7 dnevi
Weight Loss Dietitian
Weight Loss Dietitian

I can't be the only one that likes my conment

Pred 7 dnevi
Stefan S
Stefan S

nice "conment" you have there

Pred 7 dnevi
Перваяя Домофонная
Перваяя Домофонная

Шона, спасибо что вернулась. Shauna the best! 😍

Pred 7 dnevi
D KR
D KR

2x Slovenian win. That’s really, really impressive. There must be some monkey gene in Slovenian DNA others don’t have or something...

Pred 7 dnevi
Din Du
Din Du

It's a small country of 2 million Slavs but they put a heavy emphasis on fitness and sports.

Pred 7 dnevi
Daniel Horton
Daniel Horton

Racist

Pred 7 dnevi
jankoup
jankoup

Kruder is a GOD !

Pred 7 dnevi
Loreto Guazo Covas
Loreto Guazo Covas

The live streaming is going better and better ! thanks for it !

Pred 7 dnevi
Florian Strasser
Florian Strasser

ondra just shredding

Pred 7 dnevi
Dante Bonaccorso
Dante Bonaccorso

Climbing start 29:30

Pred 7 dnevi

Naprej

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